Cinematic Style Icons
Costumes in movies serve a number of functions, and some are obvious, such as period-appropriate clothing in historical dramas. Others may not be so apparent. A simple outfit or even a hat can help set the tone for the film and establish a character in the audience’s eyes. Here are some of the most iconic costumes from movie history.
The Wizard Of Oz (1939)
This fantasy classic has a number of iconic elements—the shift from black and white to color, the music, and the whimsical set design—but without key costume choices, it may not have been a memorable classic. Taking advantage of the new Technicolor film format, there was an emphasis on color, and none more so than Dorothy’s ruby slippers, a pivotal element to the story.
ImChessFan21, Wikimedia Commons
The Wizard Of Oz (1939)
With those glittering shoes and the carefully planned out costumes for the Scarecrow, Tin Man, and Cowardly Lion, legendary designer Adrian Adolph Greenburg (known mononymously as Adrian) was able to bring to life the characters in an equally colorful and elaborate set. Even Dorothy’s gingham dress, which comes to life in blue and white, is as iconic as Toto.
Sabrina (1954)
Audrey Hepburn developed a close working relationship with designer Hubert de Givenchy. The famed strapless white organdy evening gown was first sketched by de Givenchy, but the final design was by the film’s costume designer, Edith Head. The gown is part of the crucial moment when Sabrina, the daughter of a chauffeur, enters high society.
Unknown authorUnknown author, Wikimedia Commons
Breakfast At Tiffany’s (1961)
Seven years later, Hubert de Givenchy and Edith Head once again worked on the costumes of an Audrey Hepburn film. Whereas the earlier film dazzled audiences with an elegant gown, Breakfast at Tiffany’s crucial impact on culture was with the little black dress. Hepburn wears the dress throughout the film, with different accessories, demonstrating the versatility of the little black dress, one of the reasons it became a must-have for many women then and now.
Trailer screenshot, Wikimedia Commons
Casablanca (1942)
When we think of the 1940s and style, more often than not it’s this film, especially for men’s fashion. Humphrey Bogart’s look was typical of the period, but the film has become so iconic that it seems like the 1940s style was born in this movie. Nothing says “timeless classic” like Rick standing by the airplane in his wide-brimmed fedora and tan trench coat, telling Ilsa she has to leave but that they’d “always have Paris”.
Breve Storia del Cinema, Flickr
James Bond's Tuxedo
Although super spy James Bond wears any number of costumes throughout the over two dozen films in the franchise, from the 1960s men’s beachwear style of Thunderball, to the 1970s powder blue leisure suit in Live and Let Die, the one outfit associated the most with James Bond is the tuxedo. Sometimes, it’s a white tux for the casino but it’s mostly a classic black tuxedo. The association between James Bond and tuxedos is attributed to the rise in popularity of tuxedos in the 1960s.
Charlie Chaplin’s Tramp Outfit
So iconic is Chaplin’s Tramp, with the ill-fitting clothes and shoes, the pencil mustache, and the bowler hat and cane, that the look is synonymous with not only Chaplin but silent films in general. Starting with a short film in 1915, Chaplin appeared as The Tramp in countless movies up until Modern Times in 1936. The look is so part of the cultural vernacular that even 110 years after that first short film, the image is instantly recognizable.
P.D Jankens, Wikimedia Commons
Indiana Jones
The Indiana Jones series of films are period pieces and although the films tend to be tongue-in-cheek, the costumes reflect not only the time period but also the serial movies that inspired the Indiana Jones films. For a film that celebrates the pulpy B-movies of the 1930s and ‘40s, Indiana Jones’ iconic outfit—brown leather jacket, shoulder bag, whip, and of course the fedora—are as crucial to the films as the Indiana Jones character himself.
Grease (1978)
With the 1973 film American Graffiti, the long-running sitcom Happy Days, and the early rock and roll and doo-wop revival group Sha Na Na (and their eponymous TV series), the 1970s were already primed for 1950s nostalgia. Grease, originally a theatrical musical, was made into a film in 1978, becoming one of the biggest films of all time, with one of the best-selling soundtracks of all time.
Thank You (25 Millions ) views, Flickr
Grease (1978)
The film emphasized accuracy for the benefit of the former teens of the 1950s while also playing with the revivalist exaggeration of the styles to keep the kids born after the 1950s interested. Most iconic, however, is Sandy trading in the girl next door innocence of poodle skirts and cardigans for tight black pants, an off-the-shoulder black top, and red high heels.
Grease: You're the one that I want, Binge Society
Frankenstein (1931)
In Mary Shelley’s original 1818 novel Frankenstein; or, The Modern Prometheus, she describes Frankenstein’s monster as tall and grotesque, put together in an unnatural manner of “horrid contrasts, with watery and dull eyes, yellow skin, and long black hair. Illustrations over the years depict the monster in various ways and the first film adaptation, Frankenstein in 1910, depicts the monster as more of a hunched-back creature. When the novel was adapted for a feature sound film in 1931, that depiction of the monster became the template for all adaptations to follow.
Universal Studios, Wikimedia Commons
Frankenstein (1931)
With the flat head and bolts in the neck, Boris Karloff’s appearance became standard for the monster. Tall, with heavy boots, he is outfitted in a simple black peasant’s suit that speaks to the 19th-century origin of the story and has remained timeless due to its simplicity.
Universal Studios, NBCUniversal, Wikimedia Commons
Edward Scissorhands (1990)
A contemporary take on a “monster” created from scraps, Edward Scissorhands’ leather outfit and wild teased-out gothic (in the fashion sense) hair is a playful take on Gothic (in the literary sense) ideas of the grotesque. With pale makeup and the titular scissors for hands, Edward Scissorhands embraces the empathetic image of an innocent monster that is part of Mary Shelley’s monster as well.
Edward Scissorhands (1990) - A Thrilling Experience Scene (2/5) | Movieclipsm, Movieclips
Pride & Prejudice (2005)
This 2005 adaptation of Jane Austin’s classic 19th-century novel remains one of the most beloved costume dramas. The costumes, of course, are a key to the film’s success, with the outfits expressing the personalities of the Bennet sisters. The attention to detail brings the story and time period to life, with standouts including the white ball gown and Mr Darcy’s open white shirt as he strides through the field to meet with Elizabeth.
Dancing With Mr. Darcy | Pride & Prejudice (2005) | Screen Bites, Screen Bites
Black Panther (2018)
Ruth E Carter’s Oscar-winning costumes for Black Panther are rightly celebrated for their nods to African history and the use of colorful textiles. This embrace of culture and history mixes well with the contemporary superhero blockbuster film. The follow-up film Black Panther: Wakanda Forever was released after the death of Black Panther star Chadwick Boseman. That sequel served as a tribute to Boseman.
Black Panther MBaku Challenges TChalla, IntisaarOfficial
Black Panther: Wakanda Forever (2022)
Many African societies wear white for funerals, so director Ryan Coogler asked Carter to emphasize white in the second film. Being denied the colorful African textiles of the first film was a challenge for Carter but she managed to make different groups in the film distinct while using only white.
Queen Ramonda's funeral | Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, Variety
Barbie (2023)
A film based on the classic doll seems like a difficult task. The emphasis on pink is both startling and visually arresting and could easily come across as merely crass or cartoonish. The movie embraces those aspects and turns what could have been a shallow movie based on a toy into a camp classic and box office hit.
Barbie - *NEW* Official Trailer Starring Margot Robbie & Ryan Gosling, E! News
Anchorman: The Legend Of Ron Burgundy (2004)
Any film taking place in the recent past faces difficulties in making the costumes look natural rather than, well, costumes. The 1970s was a notorious time for clothes and Anchorman embraces the pure kitsch of that loud decade. Ron Burgundy wears a burgundy three-piece suit that is both appropriate for the setting and has become a signature look for the character.
The Matrix (1999)
At what point does a film’s costumes move from dated to iconic? Like much science-fiction, The Matrix tries to imagine a future world and its clothing. Years later, some of the results have become campy fun, like the original Star Trek series.
The Matrix (1999)
Films that seek to be more timeless need to give the movie a feel of the future without succumbing to clichés. The Matrix, in many ways, feels like the late 1990s, the decade the first film was made, but with time, the sunglasses, the all-black clothing, and especially the long trench coats, speak directly to the idea of a dystopian future.
Neo vs Smith Clones [Part 2] | The Matrix Reloaded [Open Matte], Flashback FM
Trainspotting (1996)
Despite its grim and generally hopeless storyline about drug addicts in Edinburgh, there was a hip marketing campaign that went along with the film’s release, spurred no doubt by the film’s now-classic soundtrack. The film is contemporary, and the characters are mostly young and poor. Their clothing, particularly star Ewan McGregor’s torn jeans, tight t-shirt, and oversized mohair sweater, is decidedly shabby chic.
Why The Trainspotting Guys Looked SO Good Together, Daniel Verhey
Do The Right Thing (1989)
Like Trainspotting, Do the Right Thing is a present-day film and the fashion reflects late 1980s Brooklyn. Director Spike Lee also played the part of Mookie, and his fashion choices moved past the baggy jeans stereotype with shorts, a Dodgers jersey, a large necklace, trainers, and a clean, careful fade.
Do the Right Thing | Restored Trailer [HD] | Coolidge Corner Theatre, thecoolidge
Rebel Without A Cause (1955)
Not a throwback retro film like Grease, Rebel Without a Cause was made in the 1950s and it was about 1950s teenagers. With a white t-shirt, straight-cut blue jeans, and a red Harrington jacket, the doomed actor James Dean exemplified the troubled young man of the 1950s. Everything about James Dean—his hair, his clothing, his mannerisms, and his tragic, dramatic, and young death—have become romantic ideals and this is in no small part because of this film.
MoonRiver777, Wikimedia Commons
Bullitt (1968)
Where James Dean was a troubled youth in 1950s attire, Steve McQueen, only a year older than Dean, exemplified a grownup version of effortless cool. With its famous car chase scene, the film is a classic crime drama and throughout the movie, McQueen wears a navy turtleneck, sometimes with just suspenders, sometimes with a brown tweed blazer, A simple look, but effortlessly cool, nonetheless.
Bullitt (1968) - We Must All Compromise Scene (8/10) | Movieclips, Movieclips
Training Day (2001)
A crime drama about a veteran officer and a rookie cop on his first day as part of an inner-city drug unit in Los Angeles. Denzel Washington’s black leather coat, black collarless shirt, and several heavy necklaces underscore his tough demeanor throughout the film.
Back To The Future (1985)
Michael J Fox plays a kid from the present day who goes back to the 1950s and the contrast in teen appearances is deliberately emphasized. The Nike Air Mags were from the second film in the series, but the signature look—denim, flannel, and a red puffer vest—was a pure 80s look.
Marty Gets Power Laces, WaxMonger
Fight Club (1999)
Brad Pitt had two looks in Fight Club, each one equally iconic. When he wasn’t shirtless with a cigarette dangling from his mouth, he was dressed in a retro red leather jacket, tacky patterned shirt, and big sunglasses. Either way, he stood out.
The Breakfast Club (1985)
The costuming of The Breakfast Club was about dressing each character according to their position in the school, whether nerd, loner, jock, or princess. Bender was the tough guy, and he stands out as an exemplary 80s anti-hero. With the sleeveless flannel over a white long-sleeved t-shirt, a denim jacket, and fingerless gloves, he looks back to earlier tough guys while pointing towards the 90s and grunge.
The Breakfast Club (2/8) Movie CLIP - Social Clubs (1985) HD, Movieclips
Pretty In Pink (1986)
Like the previous year’s The Breakfast Club, this John Hughes film is a big reminder of the 1980s, and none more so than Duckie Dale. With his 1980s retro 50s coif, loud colors, blazers with rolled-up sleeves, round sunglasses, and bolo ties, Duckie’s look is classic 80s nerd chic.
PRETTY IN PINK | Official Trailer | Paramount Movies, Paramount Movies
White Men Can’t Jump
When Hollywood tries to do street things, the results can be a mess of stereotypes and assumptions. Part of the challenge is to look authentic while still embracing the larger-than-life aspect of movies. Wesley Snipes' tank top with a really deep neck, layered loud colors, and especially the cap with the upturned bill, manages to maintain that balance.
White Men Can't Jump (1/5) Movie CLIP - Slow, White, Geeky Chump (1992) HD, Movieclips
The Seven Year Itch (1955)
The scene is so iconic, that even if you’ve never seen the film, you know the classic image. Marilyn Monroe holding her dress down while standing over a grate, playfully fighting the updraft of a New York subway. The scene works because of Marilyn’s skillful blend of sexy and comedy, but her simple white dress is also ingrained in pop culture.
marilyn monroe the subway scene (the seven year itch 1955), Memories Of Marilyn Monroe
Star Wars (1977)
Whether it's Darth Vader’s dark cyborg knight with long black cape and iconic helmet, or Princess Leia’s white robes and her side buns, everyone knows what the characters of Star Wars look like. They are possibly more ingrained in our collective pop culture conscience than any other film in history. One thing that Star Wars did really well, was to develop styles of dress in a science-fiction film that seemed authentic to the setting, without the retro-futuristic clothing of other films which are instantly dated.
Star Wars/Ron Riccio, Wikimedia Commons
A Clockwork Orange (1971)
Costume designers need to tread carefully when approaching dystopian settings to not fall into the retro-future trap. A Clockwork Orange manages this well, creating an unprecedented and completely original look for the central characters--white jumpsuits (more long full body long underwear), Doc Martin boots, bowler hats, and black eyeliner over one eye. It creates a harrowing look for a group of young hooligans in the not-to-distant future without copying those of the past or present.
Stanley Kubrick, Wikimedia Commons
The Lord Of The Rings: The Fellowship Of The Ring (2001)
One thing author JRR Tolkien mastered was providing detail in his Lord of the Rings trilogy. There was no doubt what Gandalf looked like and that was the challenge for the costume designer: creating an authentic look that would satisfy a devoted fan base while still making something epic for a larger-than-life character in a special effects-filled movie.
Dennis G. Jarvis, Wikimedia Commons
Ghostbusters (1984)
It was a simple yet daunting task: create an outfit for the characters to fight ghosts that would make sense in the logic of the film. This is something that Ghostbusters did well, with the memorable tan jumpsuits and military boots, along with an array of elaborate equipment setting the tone for a comedy that was renowned for its attention to detail.
Ghostbusters (1984) - Official® Trailer [HD], TrailersPlaygroundHD
Cleopatra (1963)
This film was notorious for its over-the-top production, unprecedented expense, and the real-life romantic drama of the film’s leads, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. A notorious flop, Cleopatra managed to come through with the costumes. As grand and detailed as the film itself, Taylor as Cleopatra is elaborately costumed in a manner fitting an Egyptian queen.
Renamed user 995577823Xyn, Wikimedia Commons
The Fifth Element (1997)
A comedic science-fiction movie, The Fifth Element leans on eccentric costumes as a parody of futuristic tropes. Most memorable is Milla Jovovich’s barely-there outfit, a white suit made up of strips of vinyl that’s offset by her bright orange bobbed hair.
Official Trailer: The Fifth Element (1997), nickbtube
Mad Max (1979)
The original Mad Max film set the tone for a new way of creating a dystopian world. Mixing biker leather with punk styles, it made a dark future seem both possible and something to dread. There’s a reason Mad Max has become synonymous with the idea of a failed state.
Mad Max Official Trailer #1 (1979) Mel Gibson HD, Shout! Studios
Mad Max: Fury Road (2016)
The fourth film in the series, Mad Max: Fury Road goes all out with dystopian horror. Emphasizing the chaos of machinery and violence, the hot and dry climate and steampunk cyborg imagery are exemplified by Charlize Theron’s soot-covered, sand-colored top, corset, and fitted metal arm.
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